Spring! And roast artichokes

Here in Rome the cherry trees are blossoming, a magnolia tree down the road is bursting in flower and spring is officially here. People are still bundled up, as the mornings can be cool, but on sunny days it is just glorious. The sidewalks are full of people chatting, the coffee bars still have extra tables outside where people linger over coffee over a spritz, and it is busy. Just lovely.

It is still artichoke season, which is wonderful. They are piled up at markets and vegetable shops, and are everywhere on menus: carciofi alla giudia, deepfried; carciofi alla romana, braised with garlic, olive oil, parsley and mentuccia (lesser calamint). Artichokes might tucked in to a plate of carbonara con carciofi, or served with lamb offal (coratella con carciofi). It takes practice and confidence to clean artichokes: cutting back the external leaves enough, but not too much. Fortunately most vegetable sellers will sell them ready-cleaned, a bag of 4-5 artichokes ready to cook, which lowers the threshold considerably.

We had a friend visiting from UK, who really enjoyed the local market. This is the “new” one on Via Rosa Guarnieri Carducci, which was refurbished a few years ago and now keeps getting better. We bought large knobbly bell peppers, shiny zucchini, and glossy eggplants to roast. We also bought fresh fava beans and pecorino romano cheese, usually a May Day picnic snack but fun to try for visitors. And we bought artichokes, cleaned on request as we paid for armfuls of vegetables while elbow to elbow with other market shoppers and chatting to neighbours. “I can’t believe this is your Saturday!” said our visitor, as we later sat in the sunshine eating pasta. Well, some Saturdays are like that.

Roast artichokes

• 4 artichokes, ready cleaned
• 3 tbs olive oil
• 30 g of grated pecorino cheese
• 40 g of breadcrumbs
• salt and pepper
• 30 g of grated pecorino cheese

Heat oven to 190C. Boil the cleaned artichokes whole in salted water for ten minutes, until they are cooked but still a little crunchy, Prepare an oven proof dish that will fit the sliced artichoke halves in a single layer. Slice them in two lengthwise while still hot. In a shallow dish, mix the breadcrumbs with a pinch of salt, a pinch of pepper and the rated cheese. Dip the artichoke halves in the breadcrumbs and nestle them into the dish. Drizzle olive oil on and around them, packing on a little leftover breadcrumbs if you want. Bake in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes or so. Serve with crisp white wine. Once roasted these are also very nice at room temperature the next day.

Krumkaker, and snow

Home in Norway to see family before Christmas. Quite a change to face -22C yesterday, but with thermal underwear and lots of knitted layers, it is lovely to have proper winter. We shoveled more snow this morning, now melting into ice, and there was also time to start Christmas baking. Krumkaker, of course. It is a traditional Norwegian Christmas cookie, which I make most years. These are waffle cookies, made on a special iron and rolled into small cones. Nice to be back during advent, to enjoy the anticipation and preparations.

Krumkaker 2022
3 eggs (weight 200g)
200 g sugar
200 g melted butter, a little cooled
200 g plain wheat flour
½ tsp cardamom, ground

Whisk eggs and sugar light and airy. Beat in butter, flour, and cardamom. Rest half an hour. Add a little water if batter is too thick. Cook in krumkake iron, about a tablespoon of batter, and roll quickly on a small wooden cone (or handle of a wooden spoon) when golden before they cool. They should be thin and very crispy. Store air tight.

Eagle-eyed readers will note these are not cone shaped, as we could not find the wooden cone this year. But a wooden spoon handle works well too, with a rolled shape. Normally strull would be made like this, a cookie that looks similar but is made with cream or sour cream, flour and sugar, no eggs. Maybe I will make a batch of those too? Continued advent to all!

Krumkaker for Christmas

A plate of Norwegian cookies: krumkaker, kokosmakroner, brune pinner, and vepsebol. Still no snow, but the house is full of family, which is great. The family WhatsApp chat has snaps of negative tests, so far all so good. We are all trying to eat more clementines and less cookies, but there is still a respectable selection. This is the krumkake recipe used this year, a classic from Tine (dairy co-op). Translation below. You will need a krumkake iron, usually electric. Last year I made regular, gluten-free, and vegan krumkaker but these are easier to make. After a walk in the woods, with sun and -9C, a cup of coffee and a cookie feels well deserved.

Krumkaker 2021
4 eggs
250 g sugar
250 g melted butter, a little cooled
250 g plain wheat flour
½ tsp cardamom, ground

Whisk eggs and sugar light and airy. Beat in butter, flour and cardamom. Rest half an hour. Add a little water if batter is too thick. Cook in krumkake iron, about a tablespoon of batter, and roll quickly on a small cone when golden before they cool. They should be thin and very crispy. Store air tight.

We are due to head to London next to see family, but are waiting to see if there are new restrictions announced for the UK tomorrow. If so, we may rebook flights. Best to be careful. It feels pretty safe here deep in the countryside, and so nice be home. I remember what it was like a year ago, with lockdown Christmas in Rome, which was good too but much quieter.

A lovely Christmas to all!