Tag Archives: Garbatella

No-knead November loaf in Garbatella


Heading back to Accra after some days in Rome, in our neighborhood of Garbatella. In Caro Diario, Nanni Moretti drives through this archway on his Vespa. Garbatella is getting trendier, which still seems odd, but is still a great place to live and visit.


Piazza Eurosia in sunshine, with Roman fragments.


Via delle Sette Chiese. Oh yes, and I baked! I actually doubled this and made one big and two small loaves, but here is enough for one.

No-knead loaf in Garbatella

5 grammes fresh yeast (or 3 grammes dry)
425 grams water
100 grammes wholewheat flour
400 grammes white wheat flour
a handful of sunflower seeds
8 grammes salt

Mix all this up, to a shaggy mess and  leave it on kitchen counter with bowl covered for a few hours while you go for apertivi.  When you are back, fold the dough over itself with a spatula for a couple minutes, until you have a firmer dough ball that can be tipped over into parchment paper. Lift that into a bowl or baking tin, cover it and leave in fridge overnight to rise. Next morning, heat oven to 250C and bake for 25-30 minutes. Cool before slicing, and enjoy!


A few days in Garbatella, and a lemon/blackcurrant curd tart


I’ve been in Rome for a week for work, and despite the rain it has been lovely to amble round the neighborhood (Garbatella), drink coffee, meet neighbours tut-tutting over the weather, grafitti and state of the roads, and of course enjoy fall food.


Cavolo nero at the market. And artichokes, broccolo romano, cicoria, mmmm….


Friday night apertivi at the butcher’s up the hill, on Via delle Sette Chiese.


Artichokes at the market: we were on our way to Eataly to see their new IKEA section, interesting. At least a good place to get ziplock bags without going to Anagnina.

Alberto Sordi

Alberto Sordi commemorated on Via Antonio Rubino.

The lemon/blackcurrant curd tart

One shop-bought pastry crust (here, gluten-free pâte brisée)
One jar lemon curd
One jar blackcurrant curd

Blind bake the pastry crust for ten min or so at 200C. I used baking beans. Then pour in the two curd jar contents, and cool until serving.


We bought the blackcurrant curd in Maldon, and it was very nice. The artistic swirl foreseen did not quite work, but this was delicious. Also super easy.




Fennel soup with zucchini, to cure a cold

Ah, Rome and Garbatella….. I had two days at home before flying back to Accra, and made the most of it: prosciutto e melone, gelato, pizza bianca slathered with fresh ricotta with truffles. Here we’ve just had cappuccini at the bar before the August heat became too oppressive.  We bumped into neighbours, some complaining about the caldo africano (“African heat”…) and the state of the streets, with grafitti, uncollected garbage piling up and a multitude of potholes. I was also updated on  #flambus, the Atac buses catching fire.  Still, it was lovely to be back, especially to see friends and wander round the neighborhood before it got too hot.

Even early in the day the cicadas were noisy. I did my usual grocery shopping for Accra (pasta, tuna, six kinds of cheese) with some fresh vegetables added in. Once back  in Accra I went down with a terrible cold, so besides a little mushroom risotto, this soup was the only thing I have actually cooked yet.  It was really just to salvage the fennel, which had gotten a bit battered, but it was very good when down with a bad cold.
Fennel soup with zucchini

2 tbs olive oil
2-3 medium large fennel bulbs, cored and diced
3 cloves garlic
1 lone zucchini that did not fit in the box, diced
1 litre vegetable stock
pepper (I was heavy-handed)

Fry the chopped fennel for a few minutes, then tip in zucchini and garlic and stock. If you have an onion, chop that and chuck that in too. Bring to boil and cook gently for ten minutes, until the fennel is tender. With an immersion blender, blend the soup until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste, and serve in a mug while you sniffle and cough and watch an episode of “Take Two”.  Neither will tax you.