Seaside risotto with spring onions


I am back in Accra after a week of holidays on Isola del Giglio, off the coast of Tuscany: good friends, excellent food, and the chance to cook with fresh Italian ingredients. Long lazy mornings with cappuccini and cornetti, morning swims, lunches cobbled together for communal eating in the garden, followed by a siesta, or a swim, before apertivi and dinner. Very relaxing. This was an ad hoc lunch dish: a risotto with spring onions, a side dish for the gluten-avoiders while the rest of us had pasta with pesto.


Risotto can be made with so many vegetables. Here, the spring onions were left over from making Ottolenghis courgette and herb filo pie for another lunch – very nice! Just being able to cook with a sea breeze and a view like this was lovely.

Seaside risotto with spring onions
One onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves of garlic
1 tbs olive oil
2 cups risotto rice (here arborio, I’d normally use carnaroli)
spalsh of white wine
1 litre simmering stock (vegetable, chicken – I used fish stock as that is what we had)
4-5 spring onions, washed and chopped
handful of fresh basil
pinch of salt and pepper

Optional if not using fish stock: a handful of grated parmesan when serving

Heat the olive oil and fry the chopped onion gently. In a separate pot, keep a litre of stock on a low boil. We’d planned to make takoyaki  (Japanese fried octopus balls) one day so I’d brought fish stock cubes to replace dashi, but we never got around to that, so in the risotto it went.  Add the rice to the pot or pan, to toast it slightly. Add a splash of white wine if you have some handy. Keep the risotto on low heat, enough to keep it boiling slightly. Then add hot stock, one ladle at a time, and stir until the liquid is absorbed. Then add more stock. After five minutes or so, add the chopped sporing onions. Keep adding hot stock, one ladle at a time, stirring until the liquid is absorbed. I threw in some chopped fresh basil.  Eventually the stock is all added, and the risotto has gone from a al dente to done and a bit starchy. Taste if it needs salt and pepper, and enjoy with a sea view.


If using a vegetable stock or chicken stock, a generous handful of parmesan right before serving will pull this together nicely.

Isola del Giglio: last night, and departure

sunset Giglio
It was our last evening of a lovely week on Giglio, with an amazing sunset. In the distance,  the island of Montecristo (As in the book “The Count of Monte Cristo”.)

For our last holiday dinner we had ordered paella at Da Tony, which was just wonderful. It seemed pricey, at 48 euro, and the menu said minimum two people. However, as you can see it was more than enough for four people to share, with masses of fresh seafood piled on. Definitely something to enjoy again. I should dig out that paella pan (wedding gift) and try, though I am not sure where to find paella rice in Rome. Castroni, possibly? Or would using risotto rice in paella be an abomination?

amaro del Giglio
Dinner finishes with Amaro del Giglio, which assists digestion and is delicious

Sunset over the tower and beach.

Next morning: Luggage packed, all set for going back to Rome. Some by car, and some by taxi, ferry, bus, a very hot train, and bus…… Very warm experience. That shower waiting in the other end was very appreciated, before unpacking all the laundry and piles of holiday books. Also, some last-minute purchases.

On the left: Amaro del Giglio, which is fantastic, one of my favourite amari. We bring some back to Rome every summer. Amari (bitters) are Italian herbal liqueurs, usually bitter-sweet, served as a digestive after the meal. Lots of variations, beside the classics (Averna, Lucano, Montenegro, Ramazotti) and the homemade ones can be interesting. Ingredients may include herbs, spices, roots, citrus peel and more. Plus two new bottles to try, we found them in Giglio Porto: an amaro from the “antica farmacia” on Giglio (have not seen that one before) and a finochietto (fennel liqueur).

Now, settling back to Rome in August heat, and craving more seafood………

Isola del Giglio: dinner at Da Tony

Moscardini at Da Tony
Moscardini fritti, so tasty……. Yes, here I am taking pictures of food in a restaurant, which is annoying. It is for research, I swear! We had such delicious food at Da Tony, and I want to try making some of these at home, if I can find some semi-decent seafood.

Tagliatelle alla scoglio
Tagliatelle alla scoglio (scoglio roughly means rock emerging from the sea): cozze, vongole calamari (mussels, clams, squid), scampi, cherry tomatoes, garlic, parsley, mmm…..

Tagliolini with coda di rospo, pachini and rughetta
Tagliolini with coda di rospo, pachino and rughetta. Very tasty.

Now, if I had brought along Daniel Etherington’s excellent guide Italian names for fish and seafood, I would have known what I was eating……..

coda di rospo – what a great name. It literally means “tail of the toad” or “toad’s tale”. The other common name for this fish is rana pescatrice, “frog fisherwoman”. Slightly more prosaically, we call this type of monkfish “anglerfish” (Lophius piscatorius), though other English names are frog-themed. Some more colourful Italian names are: diavolo de mar (“sea-devil”, also a name used in English apparently), rospo di fango (“mud-toad”), pisatrice nera, etc. Novel names aside though, the angler is really one of the core species to not eat, and it’s been on the Greenpeace Red List since 2010. Even the UK Marine Conservation society rates it as 4 (with 5 the worst).

Spaghetti alla vongole
Spaghetti alle vongole, the classic

Riso con crema di scampi
Riso con crema di scampi

Tagliolini con scampi
Tagliolini con limone e scampi, very light and fresh

This is all making me really hungry….. Now, some seafood for dinner, I think. Tonight we are making a recent Venetian-inspired recipe from The Telegraph, which looked fun: Sardines with Campari, peach and fennel recipe. Must go start the sardines now, they are already marinating in grated peaches and Campari. If we could then add the sound of the waves, a nice sunset and an evening sea breeze, it would be just perfect!