Tag Archives: market

Port in Porto

Porto! Port, tiled churches, amazing views, lots of hills and layers of history. Walking downhill was the main plan. Where to start? We opted for Bolhao market, as it was near the metro and is due for renovation soon. And I love markets. This was mainly on the lower  level, not much fish as it was Monday morning. Lovely cherries though.

Live chickens at Bolhao. Next to it there was a cafe with live pigeons, not sure what those are used for. I’ve had pigeon in Beijing and would not eat it again. 

The sardines, however, looked great.

So did the octopus. 

We popped into Sao Bento train station to get tickets back to Lisbon two days later. Not necessary, but easy enough (30 euros, three hours) and the station itself has amazing tiles! 

 We headed down towards Ribeira for lunch, which everyone else seemed to be doing. However, we had an excellent lunch up a side street, grilled sardines and grilled tuna. Coffee took a while as they had a power cut (just like being back in Accra: lights out….) but we enjoyed the view and rested sore feet. No complaints!

Across the river, and off to a port tour. There were port houses wall to wall, and the little tourist booth have us a map with prices for yours and tasting. We went to Ferreira (10 Euro, 2 port types) and followed the Portuguese tour. At least our port vocabulary is improving.

Port tasting #1, perfectly nice but not amazing. Tawny and ruby.

Port tasting #2, at Noval. Just tasting, no tour which was fine by us. Gorgeous view!

 We splurged and got the five ports, 40 euro tasting. Interesting, the extra dry white port can be used with tonic for cocktails, we might need to get some for our planned Portuguese evening. The last two were very nice indeed, especially the 40 year old port. Just delicious, it spoils you for lesser ports. 

Our friend went back to another port house the next day and decided to go straight to the very good port. Amazing paired with chocolate, she reports. 

Slightl tipsy, getting the funicular up the hill. Well worth 2.50! 

We wandered to the Bolhao metro stop, after stopping for mystery custard tarts. Not pasteis de nata, but similar. And we passed this church with azules facade, which I know is in the guidebook but we were too tired to look it up. 

Porto is definitely worth another more in-depth visit, to be planned!


From Agbogbloshie Market, and shop selfies

I thought I’d be shopping more at local markets here in Accra, but I confess, groceries are generally gotten at the supermarket. Our area (North Ridge) is pleasant but market-less, though there are always street vendors with fried plantain, pies and bread rolls. It’s a weekend hop by taxi to one of the supermarkets, since we do not have a car, and we manage. I went to Agbogbloshie Market one weekend with a colleague, near the river, where you can smell rubbish burning and going in is easier by taxi as the road is rough. It is a great market, though – we only looked for vegetables and fruit, which seemed to be sold primarily by female stallholders.

from Agbogbloshie Market
An olunka (large can) of tomatoes, twenty oranges, two watermelons…. you wander from stall to stall, looking at produce and discussing price. It gets heavy, carrying all of this, but you can get someone to carry it for you (on a metal bowl on their head)  which feels a bit odd but is practical, as the maze of stalls stretches out and you are still looking for good avocados. It was really nice, having a wander in a good market again. Of course I know that hygiene is an issue, but the quality was good and everything was washed well before consumption. It’s not easy to get there, but I might try Nima market soon, that is closer and smaller. Makola market here has EVERYTHING but it is huge, and a bit more intimidating. Foreigners were scarce at Agbogbloshie market – some colleagues say they think the market is dirty, so they just send their maid or shop at one of the supermarkets. I miss markets, but am a terrible haggler and supermarkets are easier, as well as more accessible by taxi. No buying imported imported red bell peppers there though – those are 79 cedi/kilo, almost 20 USD. The local green bell peppers are fine, at a fraction of the price.

Cindy Rice

I still find supermarkets interesting here. They are generally South African or Lebanese, and the selection and prices can differ  quite  a lot, so it takes some trekking around to get what you need. Getting groceries in Accra is actually much better than expected. Most good are imported, and expensive, though here the vaguely Disney-themed Vietnamese rice was cheaper than the local brown rice. There are sometimes weevils in some items, so we have learned to keep cereal in the fridge (sometimes after freezing it to kill off remaining wildlife) and I decant everything to sealed containers. At home ants are omnipresent, and they are fast and fierce if anything is left out, so my husband is getting much better at wiping up crumbs. The ants haven’t gone for dry pasta yet, I am not sure why.

It seems to be somewhat aspirational to shop in supermarkets, many people will buy only a few items (no wonder, groceries are expensive!) and well-dressed younger people will often pose for selfies in the aisles and post it on the shop site. There I am, pushing a small cart with French UHT milk, Coco Pine cordial (it’s coconut and pineapple), wondering about the ridiculous price of toilet paper and when Shoprite will have bread flour again, it’s been several weeks, and  – oh dear, I wandered into someone’s photo shoot again, in the detergent aisle. Three teenage boys posing with baseball caps and cool-dude gestures, and the slightly sweaty obruni (foreigner) walking into the picture frame. I apologise, scoot past them and continue my search for a plunger while they continue their stylish selfies, next to ant spray and laundry detergent. You would not see that in London or Rome (“Whoohoo, I am at Tesco’s! Or Carrefour!”), I have not quite figured out yet why this is so popular.

Today I found very small green cucumbers in the produce section! Very exciting! So I’ll be making pickles this afternoon, something I had not planned to do in 33C but we have been pickle-less for ages, so I shall try. A very good Sunday to you all!

(For reference, if you are looking: no plungers at present at Shoprite Osu, Koala, or LaraMart, but we found one at Marina Mall.)

To market, to market

A friend is visiting from Budapast, so off we went yesterday to the Rome Farmers’ Market here in Garbatella, just up the hill on Via Passino. I needed farina integrale, wholewheat flour, and you never know you might find there.
Market stallLots of greens: spinaci, cicoria, bieta, verza.
imageCheese from Amatrice, outside Rome. We came late in the morning and there was still a massive queue here. We took a ticket, and it was still half an hour’s wait, salivating over the cheeses and debating which ones to get. Aged goat cheese? Pecorino with black pepper? The smoked treccia (braid)? The massive cacio bucato, vaguely like an Edamer? We got a nice selection, enjoyed with wine later in the day.
imageNo salumi for me this time, but it is always fun to have a look. These are generally KM0 (kilometer zero,) producers, local producers from around Rome.

Black truffles! The guy who has the stand is really nice, and generous with samples of the truffle spread on bread. I bought a couple jars of truffle spread, and then looked at the row of fresh little black truffles. Ten euro, nine, twelve….. And he shaved some fresh truffle for me to taste, and I thought “Why not?” And promptly bought a small one. What do I do, with it, I asked? Prepare some “aglio e olio”, said the guy (garlic and oil), then shave the truffle over, like fine pecorino.

Mozzarella snd cherry tomatoesHome again for lunch:  cherry tomatoes, and gorgeous fresh mozzarella, with a little olive oil and pepper. Just wonderful.

Now, when shall I try my little black truffle?