Who doesn’t enjoy a good market? It was now Monday morning and the end of our long weekend in northern Puglia, but we had cunningly chosen a post-lunch train back to Rome so we could a) go explore the market and b) have a last lunch. There is always a food market of sorts somewhere: we asked our B&B, braving ourselves for local buses, but the market turned out to be just five minutes walk away, on Via Giuseppe Rosati, one street over from Via Giannone. Maybe ten minutes walk from the train station. And it was an excellent market indeed.
Those purple onions above were gorgous, and massive! We brought some back. It was loud and crowded, very organized though, and SO cheap compared to Rome. Produce went in little plastic baskets, that were then weighed. Quite a few snails trying to escape their crates. You could smell the peaches and melons, and the tomatoes, and people were so nice.
The coffee bar guy that day had proudly told us how Foggia is famous for its melons and watermelons, and we said: “Yes! We read about it! And we just went there and bought bags and bags of food to take back to Rome!” I’m disciplined about travelling light, but usually plan space for interesting food on the way home. So tempting here, when there is stall after stall with wonderful fresh fruit and veg, it all looked and smelled so delicious.
We bought beetroot, and finocchio selvatico (wild fennel fronds), and some of this fabulous freshly harvested garlic. Very pungent; must try making garlic confit this weekend. A warm Rome apartment is not ideal for storage.
Oh yes, and we bought some taralli, of course. It’s a cracker like a breadstick or a pretzel but usually round. Some with fennel, some with peperoncino; they had a great selection.
And then we went back to Osteria Numero Dieci (also close to market) for another great meal. Pasta with salsiccia e verza (sausages and cabbage, really delicious!) and pesce spada (swordfish) with tomatoes, capers, olives and oregano. Some watermelon for dessert, coffee (and a little of that great amaro they have) – absolutely perfect. Really lovely place, I’d plan a stop in Foggia another time to eat there again. Then we got the train back to Rome, stuffed and very happy.