On Hurtigruten, day 4-5: Bodø to Tromsø

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Still honeymooning on Hurtigruten, the Coastal Express of Norway, and having a wonderful time! We passed the Arctic Circle just before 0730 yesterday, there is a marker on a rock. We observed it from our cabin, then went out to see the morning light. Just gorgeous, though the wind was cold. The boat had made three stops in the night (Brønnøysund, Sandnessjøen and Nesna) for passengers and cargo, but we slept through that.

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Wonderful light. There are villages and houses along much of the coastline.

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But we cannot just live on scenery, so time for the breakfast buffet. Here, a lovely plate with five kinds of pickled herring. Very nice. The buffet also has bread and cheese (brunost, Jarlsberg og my favourite, nøkkelost with caraway). Plus muesli, yoghurt, eggs, porridge, some fruit, and fish-related items (kaviar, mackerel in tomato, mmmm). Must walk this off!

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After this, we crossed over to Lofoten, a series of island to the northwest. Beautiful, though by time we reached Svolvær it was very dark, with a hint of snow in the air. Just enough time for a quick stroll through the deserted town, it was after nine PM and most people were probably inside watching Olympic hockey.

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Svolvær harbour by night. There are jagged snow-covered peaks behind the town, very impressive. We should see it in daylight on the south-bound trip.

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Morning view today, along the Lofoten islands.

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So much sky! And we are still heading north, to Tromsø this afternoon. They call it the capital of the Arctic, it is surrounded by fjords and mountains. A number of fellow passengers are going dog-sledding there, that sounds really fun. We will just stroll in the centre and find some good coffee and wifi.

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….. And here we are in Tromsø, boats in the harbour and the sun is setting. We are at Smørtorget, a charming café with art, second hand items and the most tempting cake selection. The ship sails on in a couple hours, and tomorrow we are at the North Cape.

Smørtorget

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