To market, to market

A friend is visiting from Budapast, so off we went yesterday to the Rome Farmers’ Market here in Garbatella, just up the hill on Via Passino. I needed farina integrale, wholewheat flour, and you never know you might find there.
Market stallLots of greens: spinaci, cicoria, bieta, verza.
imageCheese from Amatrice, outside Rome. We came late in the morning and there was still a massive queue here. We took a ticket, and it was still half an hour’s wait, salivating over the cheeses and debating which ones to get. Aged goat cheese? Pecorino with black pepper? The smoked treccia (braid)? The massive cacio bucato, vaguely like an Edamer? We got a nice selection, enjoyed with wine later in the day.
imageNo salumi for me this time, but it is always fun to have a look. These are generally KM0 (kilometer zero,) producers, local producers from around Rome.

Black truffles! The guy who has the stand is really nice, and generous with samples of the truffle spread on bread. I bought a couple jars of truffle spread, and then looked at the row of fresh little black truffles. Ten euro, nine, twelve….. And he shaved some fresh truffle for me to taste, and I thought “Why not?” And promptly bought a small one. What do I do, with it, I asked? Prepare some “aglio e olio”, said the guy (garlic and oil), then shave the truffle over, like fine pecorino.

Mozzarella snd cherry tomatoesHome again for lunch:  cherry tomatoes, and gorgeous fresh mozzarella, with a little olive oil and pepper. Just wonderful.

Now, when shall I try my little black truffle?


18 thoughts on “To market, to market

  1. Tasty Eats Ronit Penso

    Ahhh nothing like food markets, especially ones where you can buy a fresh truffle!

    There is a lovely trick you can use while deciding what to make with the truffle. If you put it in a sealed container with some eggs, they will absorb the aroma and will be perfect for the nicest truffle omelet.
    The same method works great with rice, and it’s especially great if you want to make a mushroom risotto…
    And now I’m hungry! 🙂

    1. krumkaker Post author

      It’s not obvious! The Farmers Market is on Via Passino, behind the Palladium, but only on weekends. See
      Giorni di apertura: Sabato e Domenica (chiuso ad agosto)
      Orario: Sabato 8:30 – 18:00, Domenica 8:30 – 14:30
      Autobus: da Colosseo, Linea 673. Metro: B (fermata Garbatella)

      Otherwise the normal market is on via di Santa Galla/ Circonvallazione Ostiense, Mon-Sat 7-14. See

      Good luck!

  2. oneobserving

    I enjoyed this visit to the farmers’ market in Rome that you took us all on. What a delightful dilemma – having to debate over which cheese to get! May you have a delicious 2014!

  3. brisvegasvego

    Pecorino with black pepper? Black truffles? I die happily knowing that exists and that I have a good reason to go back to Rome. Next time, I want to stay for a month and just live.

  4. Miss O.

    Ah the color of Italian eggs… real eggs from real hens, and apparently “happy” and “free” (“eggs from hens grown in freedom. Fresh eggs from happy hens”) 🙂

  5. Daniel Etherington

    Oh yum. I’m really missing Rome’s markets – the farmers’ markets especially but even the local market.

    Tomatoes in January though? Huh? From Lazio, or grown in heated greenhouses down south?

      1. Daniel Etherington

        Just trying to be more local and seasonal, and tomatoes really are the biggest example of forcing crops out of season – even in Italia! (IMHO, they won’t taste half so good as in season toms, grown outdoors in actual direct sunlight.)

    1. krumkaker Post author

      So glad you enjoyed it! When I first moved to Rome I thought the markets were beautiful but exhausting. I just wanted to buy my vegetables without all the chit chat. But as my Italian skills improved, I also learned to appreciate talking with the stall holders, who were very patient with my mangled pronunciation and lack of familiarity with all the exotic things I had not seen before. Fresh artichokes, braided mozzarella, golden fragrant apricots….. Always so much to discover!


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