For our last evening in San Marco Castellabate, we went for a nice seafood meal. Fresh fish can be quite expensive, as it is sold by the etto (100 grammes), which is fine as long as you know and are not shocked by the bill. We went to the rooftop restaurant at Hotel Antonietta and had a very enjoyable meal. Dentice (dentex, or seabream, according to the ever-useful “Italian names for fish and seafood“. Thanks again for that.) Limited grill menu, but beautiful setting and the food was wonderful. We chose our dentice, with calamari on the side which they grilled impaled on rosemary. Just gorgeous.
The plates were from Vietri sul Mare, just west of Salerno, on the Amalfi coast. So pretty! (This is when I started plotting a cunning pottery-shopping detour to Vietri on the way home, despite already having plenty of dinner plates at home, luggage already stuffed with jars of hazelnuts and honey, and no space to store anything. Fortunately we had non-changeable Trenitalia tickets, and one of us was off to the airport the next morning. But maybe another time……)
Walking to the bus stop: Football fans you find everywhere.
After the pastry shop, before the bus stop, and I am very tempted by these beautiful red peppers. (This is all within about 50 metres distance. My kind of bus stop.)
This time we took the CSTP bus to Salerno, as rain was forecast, then the fast train to Rome from there. (4.10 for bus ticket, 29 euro for train ticket, two hours to Rome.) The two-hour bus trip is not really recommended, unless you have a passion for urban sprawl. We thought we’d try this, instead of bus to Agropoli (same bus), then train to Salerno, then train to Rome. That would have worked as well, I am sure. But Trenitalia in Rome could not sell us the ticket Agropoli-Salerno for some reason. It was hot and muggy, with rain forecast, so the bus ride was perfectly comfortable and definitely interesting. Not pretty, but so much to look at: lots of mozzarella signs and melon fields. You can see how it used to be marshland. Mozzarella di Bufala Campana is from here, and you frequently see signs, indicating the Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) status. We even caught a glimpse of the Greek ruins at Paestum, so I was thrilled.
Back in Rome, with our tray of pastries from San Marco Castellabate. Not cannoli, as I thought, but caramel-almond rolls with chocolate and pistachio ricotta. Plus the remaining hazelnut biscuit like a shaped brutti ma buoni, but with chocolate. (We’d already eaten the first one.) We unpacked, made some risotto, and finally watched Benvenuti al Sud, set in Castellabate. Funnier than expected, and the pastries were just divine.